In this guide we’ll walk you through everything there is to know about pressure regulators.
From the basics of how it works to step-by-step repairs and troubleshooting, you’ll gain a solid foundation of knowledge on how to operate and maintain Kimray’s pressure regulators.
Use the table of contents to skip to different sections of the learning path.
Kimray’s Back Pressure Regulator is a staple in oil and gas production. Numerous oilfield applications, including on separators, flow treaters, free water knockouts, compressor stations, and gas gathering systems use it.
Considered an “integrated valve,” the regulator’s pilot—the key to opening and closing the it—is connected to the valve body and comes out as one piece. By adjusting the bolt at the top of the regulator, the spring is pushed down to a set point. The spring presses down on the diaphragm assembly.
This positions the three-way valve. The three-way valve then allows gas from upstream to push down on the diaphragm.
If the set point is exceeded, the upstream pressure pushes up on the diaphragm assembly, therefore closing off the three-way valve and allowing gas to be vented from the top of the diaphragm and allowing the upstream pressure to be vented.
The Back Pressure Regulator allows you to hold pressure on production vessels by adjusting the set point to the desired maximum upstream pressure. The valve senses this and releases when this designated set point is reached.
Repairing a Back Pressure Regulator
Over time, the internals of the regulator experience wear and tear that can affect production processes, so it’s necessary to disassemble and replace key internal parts with a Kimray Repair Kit. In this repair series learn how to disassemble, examine, and reassemble the Kimray Back Pressure Regulator.
A Pressure Reducing Regulator is used to maintain a downstream pressure set point. Pressure Reducing Regulators are often used as suction controllers on compressors.
In this video, we'll show you how to repair a 2" Pressure Reducing Regulator.
Before you begin disassembly, use a marker to make a mark on each layer of the valve. This way when you reassemble the valve, you'll be able to line up each piece correctly.
Bonnet & Pilot Housing
Start by removing the adjustment screw and pressure gauge.
Remove and discard the washer and packing seal. These will be in your repair kit.
Use a 9/16” wrench to loosen the tubing connectors.
Take the four main bolts out of the bonnet with a 9/16” wrench.
Remove the bonnet from the pilot housing. You may need to use a screwdriver to pry them apart.
Now remove both spring plates and spring.
Remove the pilot housing. If it’s stuck from rust or corrosion, use a flathead screwdriver or similar tool to separate them.
Use a 9/16 socket wrench to remove the pilot seat and diaphragm. Discard both; they will be in the repair kit.
Remove the spacer ring. If you have the old style, replace it with the new design. If you already have the new spacer, you can reuse it.
2.2 New Spacer Ring Design
Use two channel locks to remove the diaphragm nut from diaphragm plate and discard the diaphragm. We will be replacing this with the repair kit.
Next, use a 9/16” socket to remove the lower seat and pilot plug.
Use a pick to remove the gasket and spring. All these pieces can be discarded.
Upper Housing
Now, remove all the upper housing bolts.
Remove the tubing and then remove the upper housing.
Once you’ve removed the upper housing, discard the diaphragm.
Now, use a flathead screwdriver to pry loose the lower housing.
Carefully discard the oil in the lower housing.
Remove and discard the gasket and use a putty knife or similar tool to clean the gasket surface on top of the lower housing.
Removable Seat
Once you’ve removed the lower housing, you’ll be able to see the removable seat in the body.
If you have the Kimray seat removal tool, use it to take out the removable seat.
2.3 Kimray Seat Removal Tool
If you’re doing this repair in the field or do not have the correct tool, only remove the seat if there are signs of corrosion, pitting or scoring. You may end up doing more damage to the seat by trying to pry it out.
2.4 Corrosion on Seat
The repair kit includes a new gasket, but if you are replacing the removable seat, a new one will need to be ordered separately.
Next, inspect the body for rust or debris that might clog your filter when the valve is in service.
Use compressed air to clear the sense line communication port.
Lower Housing
Next, we’ll disassemble the lower housing.
Put the diaphragm plate of the lower housing into the vise.
Use a 9/16” wrench on the lock nut to remove the ratio plug, seat and seat disc.
Discard the lock nut and seat.
Keep the ratio plug and seat disc.
Remove lower housing and then remove the spring.
Examine for scoring or other signs of damage.
Using a pick, remove and discard the two Teflon backups and the O-ring from the lower housing.
Put the upper housing into a vise and use an adjustable wrench to remove the filter cap.
Remove and discard the O-Ring from the filter cap.
Remove filter screens with a pick and clear out any debris in the filter housing.
With the valve fully disassembled, now is a good time to organize your workspace and open your Kimray repair kit (RYG (new version) or RDG (old version)) to prepare for assembly.
Cleaning
Clean every part and clear all debris using a wire brush or rag. If you’re in a shop, you can use a parts washer. If you're in the field, you can use degreaser.
How to Reassemble a Pressure Reducing Regulator
With the upper housing in the vise, replace the filter screens from the repair kit. This is easiest with the rounded edge of the filters facing down.
Install the new O-Ring. Then re-install the cap.
Put the body back in the vise. If you are replacing the removable seat, place the gasket from your repair kit on your removable seat. Be careful not to apply too much pressure to the gasket while installing so it doesn’t tear.
Apply grease to gasket and the sealing surface in the body.
Install the removable seat into the body with the Kimray Seat Removal Tool.
Do not overtighten the seat. This also could cause damage to the gasket.
Stretch the Teflon backup slightly to make it look like a spring. Insert one end of the backup into the lower housing and use a pick to rotate it in a counterclockwise motion until it’s fully installed.
Next install the O-ring. Pinch and fold it to make it easier to install in the lower housing.
Push the O-ring and first Teflon backup all the way down to the bottom of the lower housing channel to make room for the last backup.
Insert the second backup into the lower housing and rotate counterclockwise.
Add grease to the Teflon backups and O-ring.
Install the spring around the lip in the lower housing.
Next, install the stem into the lower housing. It's best to use a Kimray stem guide to avoid sheering your O-ring.
2.5 Stem Guide
Fully insert the stem into the housing, then remove the stem guide.
Put the lower housing into a vise, clamping down on the diaphragm plate.
Install the seat disc, new seat and ratio plug.
Hand start the lock nut on the threads of stem.
Use a 9/16 socket to tighten to the point where the seat disc no longer rotates. It’s critical not to over-tighten because it can deform the seat.
Apply grease to the lip of the lower housing.
Then install the gasket and apply grease on top.
Remove the lower housing and put the valve body into the vise.
Now put the lower housing assembly into the valve body. As you assemble the valve, follow the markings you made before disassembly.
Fill the oil bowl with any kind of light gravity motor oil until the communication hole is covered.
Install the main diaphragm and mount the upper housing on the body.
Hand-start the bolts, re-install the tubbing, then fully tighten the bolts in a star pattern.
Insert the spring into the upper housing large side down.
Install gasket onto seat.
Insert the pilot plug into the seat and hand thread it into the upper housing. Use a 9/16” socket to tighten it down, being careful not to over-tighten the seat.
If you've done everything correctly, you should feel the resistance of the spring as you push down on the pilot plug.
Put the diaphragm on the diaphragm plate.
Then, thread on the diaphragm nut.
Use two channel locks to tighten the assembly.
Use the spacer ring as a guide to for the diaphragm to know when it is tight enough.
Install the diaphragm onto the seat.
Place the sensing diaphragm on top of the pilot housing.
Thread the seat into the upper diaphragm plate through the pilot housing. Use the 9/16" wrench to fully tighten the seat.
Make sure the pilot plug and pilot diaphragm are both centered.
Then, install the pilot housing on the upper housing.
Add grease to the diaphragm plate, without covering the hole.
Now install the spacer ring, spring plates and spring.
Apply grease to the top spring plate.
Place the bonnet on the valve and start the bolts by hand.
Install the rest of the tubing and then fully tighten the bonnet bolts.
Reinstall the pressure gauge with thread tape.
Lastly, attach the new washer and packing seal to the adjustment screw and thread it into the bonnet.
3. How to Repair a Spring Loaded Back Pressure Regulator
Kimray's Spring Loaded Back Pressure Regulator is a dependable, easy-to-operate, zero-emission solution for holding back pressure on an oil and gas vessel.
The primary reason a producer would want to use the spring-loaded back pressure regulator over a pilot-operated regulator is that it requires no instrument gas. This means the valve releases no emissions.
Another advantage is you can flow liquid or gas or both simultaneously. For example, in a two-phase free water knockout, it can regulate the oil and gas together, allowing the vessel to separate the water from these elements.
In this video and article, we'll show you how to repair a Spring Loaded Back Pressure Regulator
Flathead Screwdriver (If Lower Housing Does Not Remove Easily)
Any Kind of Light Gravity Motor Oil (Not Needed for Non-Lube Version)
Kimray Tools
Removable Seat Tool (if damaged)
Stem Guide (1852)
Kimray Repair Kit (RTB1; check here for your specific model)
3.1 Tools Needed
How to Disassemble a Spring Loaded Back Pressure Regulator
Start by unthreading the adjustment screw to relieve spring tension.
Your model may have tubing connectors, depending on a few variables. Use a 9/16” wrench to loosen them if needed.
Remove the bonnet bolts with a 9/16” socket wrench.
Remove the bonnet, upper spring plate guide, inner and outer spring, and lower spring guide.
Next, remove the lower housing. If it’s stuck from rust or corrosion, use a flathead screwdriver to separate them.
Appropriately discard the oil from the lower housing.
Remove and discard the gasket from the body. Depending on the condition, you may need to scrape off some of the old gasket which may be stuck to the body.
Inspect the removable seat for damage. You’ll only want to remove the seat if there are signs of corrosion, pitting or scoring. If you do not have the correct tool, you may end up doing more damage to the seat trying to pry it out. This part is also not included in the repair kit and will need to be ordered separately if you need to replace it.
3.2 Removable Seat Diaphragm
Remove the valve body from the vise and put in the lower housing assembly. Secure it by the flats of the nut and NOT the ratio plug.
Unthread the assembly with a 9/16” wrench.
You can discard the nut, there is a replacement in the repair kit.
Remove the diaphragm plate and discard the diaphragm.
Remove the lower diaphragm plate from the stem.
Lift off the lower housing and then remove the assembly from the vise.
Stainless steel internals can be used when this valve is subject to corrosive applications. These internals include the stem, ratio plug, diaphragm plate, removable seat and the seat disc.
Using copper vise jaw plate covers to avoid damage, put the stem into the vise, then remove and discard the nut with a 9/16” wrench.
Remove the seat disc with the soft seat and ratio plug.
Discard the soft seat.
Place the seat disc back on the stem, followed by the new soft seat, then ratio plug.
Add grease to the stem threads, then tighten the new nut in place.
Using a pick, remove and discard the two backups and the quad ring from the lower housing.
Stretch the backup slightly to make it look like a spring. Insert one end of the backup into the lower housing and use a pick to rotate it in a counterclockwise motion until it’s fully installed.
Next install the quad ring. Pinch and fold it to make it easier to install in the lower housing.
Push the quad ring and first backup all the way down to the bottom of the lower housing channel to make room for the last backup.
Again, stretch it out, then insert it into the lower housing and rotate counterclockwise.
Add grease to the backups and quad ring.
Remove the stem from the vise and secure it by the nut on the opposite side.
Next, we’ll install the stem into the lower housing. It's a good idea to use a Kimray stem guide to avoid sheering your quad ring.
Place the lower diaphragm plate on the stem, textured side up, followed by the new diaphragm from the repair kit, bevel side down.
Next, replace the diaphragm plate. Grease the stem threads and tighten with the new diaphragm nut.
How to Disassemble a Non-Lube Spring Loaded Back Pressure Regulator
If you are repairing a non-lube model, the lower housing will look a little different and there will be a few other pieces in the repair kit.
The non-lube option is offered for many regulators and low pressure control valves. It is commonly used in applications where the orientation of the piping is vertical making it difficult for the oil to communicate with the stem. It could also be used in cases where the process media does not allow for potential contaminants, such as oil lubricant.
3.3 Non-Lube Parts
After you’ve removed the stem assembly from the lower housing, use an adjustable wrench to remove the stem seal retainer. You can discard the retainer and washer along with all the O-rings and backups.
To replace these components from the repair kit, start with placing the new washer in the lower housing.
Install the O-ring on the retainer and then apply grease.
Put the O-ring onto the channel seal.
Then assemble the packing inside the retainer with a backup, O-ring and second backup.
Thread the retainer onto the lower housing. Because the packing is loose, it may need to be realigned before you tighten the retainer fully.
How to Reassemble a Spring Loaded Back Pressure Regulator
Clean any debris from inside the body and the surface where the gasket will set.
If you are replacing the removable seat, put the new gasket on the seat and then apply grease.
Install the removable seat into the body with the Kimray Seat Removal Tool. Be careful not to overtighten the seat and damage the gasket.
Apply grease to the gasket surface of the lower housing. Put on the gasket, then grease the top of the gasket.
Replace the lower housing assembly on the valve body.
Fill the lower housing with any kind of light gravity motor oil until the communication hole to the lower stem is fully submerged. When you cannot see the communication hole, adding more oil is a better practice than not adding enough. (If you’re using the non-lube version, no oil is necessary.)
Replace the lower spring guide, springs, and upper spring guide. Add grease to the upper spring guide if necessary.
Replace the bonnet and hand start your bolts to avoid cross threading. Tighten the bolts in a star pattern to complete the repair.
4. How to Convert a Back Pressure Regulator to Non-Vent
A Back Pressure Regulator is a specific type of control valve that holds pressure on production vessels such as separators, treaters, and free water knockouts and releases upstream pressure when a designated set point is reached.
When a back pressure regulator is operating correctly, it vents pressure off the diaphragm as it adjusts. However, some producers need to convert the regulator from venting to non-venting. You may need to do this if you are using the regulator inside a building, facing increased emissions regulations, or for safety concerns.
To make this process as simple as possible, we offer all-in-one non-vent conversion kits that include the tubing, connector, tee and elbow. To order one of these kits or speak with an expert about this process, reach out to your local Kimray store or authorized distributor.
Parts Needed
These are the parts you will need for this process:
Tubing Benders
Tubing Cutters
Elbow
Primer
Loctite
Grease
Adjustable Wrench
9/16th” Wrench
Socket Wrench
Non-Vent Conversion Kit
(2) 1/4" Steel Tubes (9" each)
Connector
Tee
4.2 Tools Needed
How to Disassemble a Back Pressure Regulator for Non-Vent Conversion
We’re in a controlled environment for the video, but if you are doing this in-line, you will need to isolate and depressurize the valve first.
If you’re using a vice, mount it slightly off center so that when it comes times to install the new elbow, you’ll be able to attach it without adjusting the valve.
4.4 Disassembly Mounting in Vice
Unthread the adjustment bolt to relieve the spring pressure.
Loosen the tubing.
Remove the bonnet bolts, but leave them in place to keep the assembly from coming apart.
Remove the tubing from the body and inspect the diaphragm for damage. If it’s damaged, it will need to be replaced.
4.5 Disassembly Inspect Diaphragm
Remove the upper pilot seat with a 9/16" wrench. Keep the upper seat assembly together as you separate it from the upper diaphragm plate.
4.6 Disassembly Remove Upper Pilot Seat
Remove and discard the current spring and replace it with the new stronger spring from the conversion kit. Because we are venting to downstream, it can take a little more force to keep the pilot plug seated in some situations. This stronger spring is not a standard component and is only included in these non-vent conversion kits.
4.7 Disassembly Spring4.8 Disassembly Insert New Spring
With the new spring in place, put the upper seat assembly back on the upper diaphragm plate and tighten. If this has been done correctly, you’ll feel the resistance of the spring as you push the pilot plug down.
4.9 Disassembly Pilot Plug
Rotate the tubing 90 degrees so you can prop the pilot housing assembly upright and not damage the pilot plug.
Loosen the bolts on the upper housing and set it aside.
Inspect this diaphragm for any damaged, and replace it if needed.
Inspect the gasket on the lower housing. Do not tip it over, because there is oil in it.
Apply new grease to the gasket.
How to Reassemble a Non-Vent Back Pressure Regulator
Rotate the lower housing so that the vent plug is 90 degrees from both inlets.
Rotate the upper housing vent plug 90 degrees to the downstream side.
Verify that the lower diaphragm is positioned correctly.
Hand-start the bolts through the upper housing into the body and tighten in a criss-cross pattern.
Install the pilot housing assembly back on to the upper housing, making sure the (110) diaphragm is not pinched or off center.
Insert the tubing into the elbow on the body, but do not tighten it yet.
4.12 Assembly Insert Tubing
Tighten each bonnet bolt gradually, so that as it seals, pressure on the diaphragm is applied evenly.
Now tighten the tubing connectors.
Remove the vent plugs from the upper and lower housings.
Make sure that the ferrules on both ends of the new connector are still installed.
4.13 Assembly Tubing Ferrules4.14 Assembly Tee
Apply primer and Loctite to the tee threads and install it into the lower housing.
Next, apply primer and Loctite to the connector and install it.
Remove the plug on the downstream side of the body and apply primer and Loctite to the elbow.
Install it so that the tube connection is facing the upstream outlet.
After bending and cutting your tubes, be sure to pre-install the ferrules by tightening the nut to the connector with the tube firmly inserted.
4.15 Assembly Fitting
Remove the tube to inspect that the ferrule has attached correctly.
4.16 Assembly Elbow
Install the tubing.
4.17 Assembly Tubing
Lastly, correct your adjustment bolt on top for your desired set point.
Now your back pressure regulator is non-venting. If you have any questions about any part of this repair process or the custom Kimray tools used, reach out to your local Kimray store or authorized distributor.
We have other solutions available to help you meet your company’s ESG goals, including electric actuators and pilots, non-vent control valves and more. For more information, check out our emissions solutions guide.
5. How to Convert a Back Pressure Regulator to Outside Supply
Looking for practical steps to take to achieve your ESG commitments? One source of natural gas emissions may be your back pressure regulator.
We’ll show you a simple change you can make to prevent your back pressure regulators from venting natural gas.
The 330 SGT BPOS was installed on our separator and commissioned 7/15/22. There were no issues to report during startup, and once in service, the valve functioned correctly.”
-Engineer, E&P in the Delaware Basin
Options for Zero-Emission Regulators
To eliminate emissions from your regulator, you have two options:
Either option can be purchased new, or you can easily convert an existing regulator to either operation with only a few extra parts.
* The outside supply regulator will fail open when you lose supply gas.
Non-Vent Regulators vs Outside Supply Regulators
Why choose one or the other? If your pressure differential—or the pressure drop across the valve (𝚫P)—is 10 PSI or less, we recommend converting to an outside source of supply air.
The back pressure regulator with outside supply (BPOS) can be used to eliminate emissions when you incorporate an air compressor into your operation for instrument supply.
Note that you can also use the BPOS to hold back pressure in wet gas applications to reduce the likelihood of malfunction due to heavy condensate. This was the primary use of this product’s predecessor, the liquid back pressure regulator.
When you’re doing a conversion, we recommend also installing a repair kit. We’ll be showing both processes in this video. For a 2" Back Pressure Regulator conversion and repair, you will need the following tools and components:
9/16” Wrench & Socket
5/8” Wrench
Channel Locks (x2 if not using a vise)
Adjustable Wrench
Multi-Purpose Lubricant/Grease
Flathead Screwdriver (if needed to Separate Housing)
1¼" Socket Extender (if using Removable Seat Tool)
Needle Nose Pliers (to remove Filter Screens)
Any Kind of Light Gravity Motor Oil
Loctite
Pick
Tubing Bending Equipment
Recommended Kimray Tools
Removable Seat Tool (if seat is damaged)
Stem Guide
5.1 Tools & Parts Needed
We’re in a controlled environment, but if you are doing this in-line, you will need to isolate and depressurize the valve first. Before beginning, consult your company’s safety guidelines and use the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE).
How to Disassemble a Back Pressure Regulator for Outside Supply Conversion
Using a 9/16” wrench, remove the adjustment screw and discard the washer and packing seal.
Next, remove and set aside the pressure gauge and all the breather plugs from the bonnet, upper housing and lower housing. (Note: If the breather plug from the lower housing shows signs of corrosion, a spare breather plug is included in the conversion kit. If the breather plug is still in a serviceable condition, it can be reused.)
Loosen all the tubing connectors.
Remove the bonnet bolts with a 9/16” wrench and rotate the pilot housing to remove the tubing.
Remove and discard the tubing as well as the elbows from the main body and filter body.
Remove the upper bonnet, upper spring plate, spring, lower spring plate, and spacer ring.
Then remove the pilot housing from the upper housing. If it’s stuck from rust or corrosion, you can use a flathead screwdriver to separate them.
Turn the pilot housing over and use a 9/16” socket wrench to remove and discard the pilot seat, pilot plug, spring and diaphragm.
Use channel locks to separate the diaphragm nut from the diaphragm plate. You could also use a vise instead if you have one available.
Remove and discard the diaphragm. Set the diaphragm plate aside. It will be an extra piece that will not be used for this conversion. This can also be used to convert other Kimray products to non-vent configurations. Set the diaphragm plate aside. It will be an extra piece that will not be used for this conversion. This can also be used to convert other Kimray products to non-vent configurations.
5.2 Extra Diaphragm Plate
Use the 9/16” socket wrench to remove and discard the (113) pilot seat and gasket from the upper housing.
Now, remove all the upper housing bolts and then remove the upper housing. You may have to use a flathead screwdriver to separate them.
Once you’ve removed the upper housing, discard the diaphragm.
Remove the lower housing from the body. Again, you may need to wedge a flathead screwdriver between the housings to pry them apart.
Carefully discard the oil in the lower housing.
Remove and discard the gasket from the body. This may be attached to the lower housing instead.
If you have the Kimray seat removal tool, use it to take out the removable seat and inspect it for signs of corrosion, pitting or scoring. This piece is not included in your repair kit, so if it does need to be replaced, you’ll need to order a new one.
5.3 Seat Removal Tool
If you do not have the Kimray seat removal tool, inspect the seat for damage, but don’t try to remove it from the body. You’re more likely to further damage the seat by prying it out.
If you take out the removeable seat, remove and discard the gasket from it. This piece is included in your repair kit.
Put the diaphragm plate of the lower housing into a vise.
Use a 9/16” wrench on the lock nut to remove the ratio plug, seat and seat disc. If your main stem begins to unthread, the lock nut may not come loose. You may have to use soft jaws on the main stem in your vise to keep it from moving. - Discard the lock nut and seat. - Keep the ratio plug and seat disc.
Using a pick, remove and discard the two Teflon backups and the O-ring from the lower housing.
Put the pilot housing into a vise, then remove the filter cap and its contents. Remove and discard the O-Ring from the filter cap.
Insert a pick in the gauge port to push the screens out, then use needle nose pliers to finish removal.
Remove the filter body with channel locks.
Remove the nipple with a 5/8” wrench, but save this piece for assembly.
How to Inspect and Clean a Back Pressure Regulator
Inspect the body for rust or debris that might clog your filter when the valve is in service.
Use a putty knife, Emery cloth, or flat head screwdriver to clean the gasket surface on top of the body.
Use compressed air to clear the sense line communication port.
Check for any debris from the breather plug communication port of the lower housing.
Clean the upper housing – clear any debris from the gasket seating area by using an Emery cloth or a flathead screwdriver to scrape out the old gasket.
To ensure there are no obstructions, insert a small screwdriver or an awl into the breather plug communication port until you can see it inside the upper housing. Also check the port going to the diaphragm.
With the valve fully disassembled, now is a good time to organize your workspace and open your Kimray Repair Kit to prepare for assembly.
How to Reassemble a Back Pressure Regulator for Outside Supply
If you took out the removable seat, put on the new gasket from the repair kit.
Apply grease to the gasket and install the removable seat into the body with the Kimray Seat Removal Tool to 30 ft-lbs. Do not overtighten the seat. This could cause damage to the gasket.
Stretch one of the Teflon backups slightly to make it look like a spring.
Insert one end of the backup into the lower housing and use a pick to rotate it counterclockwise until it’s fully installed.
Pinch and fold the o-ring to make it easier to install.
Push the O-ring and first Teflon backup all the way down to the bottom of the lower housing channel to make room for the last backup.
Again, uncoil the Teflon backup, then insert it into the lower housing and rotate counterclockwise.
Add grease to the Teflon backups and O-ring.
Put the diaphragm plate in the vice.
Put on the Kimray stem guide. When you install the lower stem, it's best to use a Kimray stem guide to avoid sheering the O-ring.
Fully insert the stem into the lower housing, then remove the stem guide.
Install the seat disc, new seat and ratio plug.
Put on the locknut. When tightening the locknut, it’s critical to not over-tighten, because it can deform the seat. Tighten it to the point where the seat disc no longer rotates.
Remove the lower housing from the vise and make sure that the lower stem can move freely before continuing.
Put the (5259P) diaphragm on the NEW (116) diaphragm plate.
Hand-thread the diaphragm nut to the plate.
Secure the plate in a vise. Use the spacer ring around the diaphragm to know how much to tighten it with channel locks. If it is too tight, the diaphragm will be distorted and not fit correctly inside of the spacer ring.
Place the first diaphragm housing over this assembly with the smooth surface facing up.
Thread a (110) diaphragm on the seat extension.
Then thread the seat extension into the diaphragm plate by hand and then tighten until snug.
Place the spacer on the opposite side with the part number facing up.
Put your original diaphragm housing on top, smooth side up.
5.4 Diaphragm Assembly
Put the (110) diaphragm on the (113) pilot seat.
Thread the seat onto the seat extension by hand then tighten the pilot seat with a 9/16” socket wrench being careful not to overtighten it.
Make sure the (110) diaphragm is centered in the pilot housing.
Remove the diaphragm housing assembly from the vise and replace it with the body.
Lubricate the gasket surface of the lower housing with grease. Place the gasket on that surface, then grease the top.
Now install the lower housing into the body. The port will be on the same side as the ports on the valve body.
Fill the lower housing with any kind of light gravity motor oil until the communication hole to the lower stem is fully submerged.
Install the main diaphragm, bevel side down, then mount the upper housing on the body with the port facing downstream.
Hand-start the bolts. Tighten down two opposite bolts evenly, then alternate with a star pattern, just like you would lug nuts on a wheel.
Put the (108) conical spring in the valve body with the smaller end facing up.
Put the new (118) gasket on the (565) pilot seat.
Pick up the (565) pilot seat with the pilot plug by the small ball. thread it down by hand before tightening gently with socket wrench. Do not over-tighten it because you could tear through the gasket.
Verify that the pilot plug can move freely and returns with the spring tension before continuing. If you've done everything correctly, you should feel the resistance of the spring as you push the pilot plug down. Never use any grease or oil in the pilot plug area. Any debris could keep the pilot plug from seating correctly.
Place the diaphragm housing assembly on top of the upper housing. The lower diaphragm housing port will face the Kimray logo on the valve body. The upper diaphragm housing port will face the upstream side of the valve.
Install the O-ring on the filter cap.
Insert the six filter screens into the body.
Hand thread the filter cap into the filter body.
Apply Loctite to the nipple and hand thread it into the upper housing port.
Apply Loctite to the other end of the nipple and thread on the filter body. You will use the port that has no NPT on the opposing side.
Use channel locks on the filter to fully tighten it. The filter cap will be facing the same side as the sensing ports. Your supplied air to the regulator will come into this filter, so it’s important to clear the airline of any debris before connecting.
5.5 Filter Body Orientation
Now you can fully tighten the filter cap.
Install a (699) plug on the top of the filter body with a 9/16” wrench.
Add grease to the upper diaphragm plate.
Replace the lower spring plate, spring and upper spring plate.
Grease the top of the upper spring plate.
Place the bonnet with the NPT facing the body sensing ports. Hand-start the new longer bolts, but do not tighten them all the way.
Apply Loctite to the elbow and thread it into the upstream sensing port.
Apply Loctite to the nipple with the hex and hand thread it into the upper diaphragm housing.
Apply Loctite to the other end of the nipple and hand start the (2000) Tee fitting.
Tighten with channel locks or a large crescent wrench making the Tee fitting ports vertical.
Apply Loctite to the treads of the second elbow and install it into the bottom port of the Tee fitting.
When tightening this fitting, stop with the tubing connector approximately facing the bolts of the upper housing. The final tightening will come once the tubing is in place.
Install all three breather plugs in the bonnet, pilot housing, and lower housing. Tighten them so that the hole is pointing down or at an angle so that it is harder for rain and debris to get inside and clog the breather plug.
Apply Loctite to the gauge and install it on the top port of the Tee.
Lastly, insert the adjustment screw with the new washer and packing seal.
Because this repair kit can be used for other products, there will be two remaining pieces that will not be used:
Gasket (276)
Diaphragm (6520)
Your back pressure regulator is now ready to use with an outside supply source. If you have any questions about any part of this repair process or the custom Kimray tools used, reach out to your local Kimray store or authorized distributor.
We have other solutions available to help you meet your company’s ESG goals, including electric actuators and pilots, non-vent control valves and more. For more information, check out our emissions solutions guide.
6. How to Convert a Pressure Reducing Regulator to Non-Vent
ESG requirements are a growing topic among oil and gas producers. One step you can take to support these goals is to eliminate natural gas emission from your pressure reducing regulators.
You can achieve non-vent operation by purchasing our non-vent pressure reducing regulators or by converting your existing regulators with a few simple parts. You may also want to do this if you are using the regulator inside a building or for other safety concerns.
In this video, Will show how to quickly and easily convert a pressure reducing regulator to non-vent.
We’re in a controlled environment, but if you are doing this in-line, you will need to isolate and depressurize the valve first. Before performing any service, consult your company's safety guidelines and requirements. Follow all regulations and wear all necessary PPE.
Parts & Tools Needed
Diaphragm Plate BP (105)
Pilot Plug Spring (585)
9/16” Wrench and/or Socket
Vise / Large Pipe Wrench
Adjustable Wrench
Channel Locks
Grease
Pick (optional)
Marker (optional)
6.1 Parts Needed6.2 Extra Parts Chart
How to Disassemble a Pressure Reducing Regulator for Non-Vent Conversion
While doing this conversion, we also recommend using a repair kit for basic maintenance and improved operation.
First, unthread the adjustment bolt to relieve the spring pressure.
Make a mark down the regulator to help realign the components during assembly.
Then, loosen all the tubing connections.
Remove the bonnet bolts with a 9/16” wrench, then take off the bonnet, spring, spring plates and spacer ring.
Remove the pilot housing and inspect the diaphragm for damage. If it’s damaged, it will need to be replaced.
Use a 9/16” socket to remove the bolts from the upper housing, then remove the tubing and upper housing, inspecting the diaphragm for damage.
Remove the lower housing and properly discard the oil.
Put the diaphragm plate into the vise and use a 9/16” wrench to remove the nut.
Remove the ratio plug and seat. Inspect them for damage and replace them if needed.
Next, check the gasket for damage and then remove the lower housing.
Remove the spring and set this aside. This will be an extra part for this conversion.
6.3 Spring Removal.jpg
Reassemble the lower housing, seat, ratio plug and nut.
Also apply new grease to the gasket.
Replacing the Diaphragm Plate
Place the pilot housing upside down in the vise on the diaphragm plate.
Use a socket wrench to remove the pilot seat.
Inspect the diaphragm and replace it if necessary.
Use channel locks to remove the diaphragm nut from the diaphragm plate.
Remove and inspect the diaphragm and replace it if necessary.
Keep the diaphragm nut, but set the diaphragm plate aside, it will be an extra piece.
6.4 Diaphragm Plate
Put the new diaphragm plate in the vise.
Thread on the diaphragm, then the diaphragm nut.
Place the spacer ring around the diaphragm to know how much to tighten it. If it is too tight, the diaphragm will be distorted and not fit correctly.
6.5 Spacer Ring
Then tighten the diaphragm nut with channel locks.
Replace the pilot housing and tighten the pilot seat and diaphragm in place. Again, be careful not to over tighten.
How to Reassemble a Pressure Reducing Regulator for Non-Vent
Put the body back in the vise and put the upper housing back on the body. Be sure to align your marks.
Fill the housing oil bowl with a low gravity oil, enough to cover the communication hole.
Place the diaphragm on top, bevel side facing up.
Replace the lower housing, aligning with your marks.
Only hand-tighten the bolts at this point so that it’s easier to replace the tubing later.
Replacing the Pilot Plug Springs
Use a 9/16 socket to remove the pilot seat. Inspect the gasket for damage.
Use a pick to remove the pilot spring and set it aside; this will also be an extra piece.
6.6 Pilot Spring Replacement
Put in the new pilot plug spring (585).
Hold the pilot plug assembly by the ball of the pilot plug to keep it together while you thread on the assembly by hand. Then fully tighten it with a socket wrench.
Verify that the pilot plug can move freely before continuing.
Install the pilot housing assembly back on to the upper housing, making sure the diaphragm isn’t pinched or off center.
Finish Reassembly
Place the spacer ring around the diaphragm and align it with the bolt holes.
Replace the lower spring plate, spring and upper spring plate.
Align the bonnet with your markings and hand-tighten the bolts.
Reassemble all the tubing and then fully tighten all the bolts in a crisscross pattern.
Tighten the tubing connectors.
Lastly, tighten your adjustment bolt on top for your desired set point.
Now your pressure reducing regulator is non-venting. If you have any questions about any part of this repair process or the custom Kimray tools used, reach out to your local Kimray store or authorized distributor.
We have other solutions available to help you meet your company’s ESG goals, including electric actuators and pilots, non-vent control valves and more. For more information, check out our emissions solutions guide.
7. How to Convert a Pressure Reducing Balanced Regulator to Non-Vent
A Pressure Reducing Balanced Regulator (PRB) controls pressure downstream of the valve. The balanced feature greatly reduces the effect of varying upstream pressure. These regulators are commonly used as suction control valves on compressors where a higher degree of set point accuracy is needed. The primary difference between Kimray’s Pressure Reducing Regulator and the Balanced version is the set point drift ratio.
The standard version of this valve is classified as non-bleed intermittent vent and meets many producer's emissions standards. However, if your goal is to eliminate emissions or you need to install your regulator inside of a building, we recommend using the non-vent PRB.
You can achieve non-vent operation by purchasing a new non-vent version or by converting your existing PRB with a few simple parts.
How to Disassemble a Pressure Reducing Balanced Regulator for Non-Vent Conversion
We’re in a controlled environment in the video, but if you are doing this in-line, you will need to isolate and depressurize the valve first. While doing this conversion, we also recommend using a repair kit for basic maintenance and improved operation.
First, unthread the adjustment bolt to relieve the spring pressure.
Make a mark down the regulator to help realign the components during assembly.
Then, loosen all the tubing connections.
Remove the bonnet bolts with a 9/16” wrench.
Then take off the bonnet, upper spring plate, spring, lower spring plate, and spacer.
Inspect the gasket on the spacer for damage.
Remove pivot screw with a 9’16” wrench.
Remove the upper pilot housing and inspect the diaphragm for damage. If it’s damaged, it will need to be replaced.
Remove the spacer ring.
Remove the lower pilot housing, along with the pressure gauge and tubing. Set this aside and we will disassemble it later.
Use a 9/16” socket to remove the bolts from the upper housing, then remove the tubing and upper housing.
Inspect the diaphragm for damage.
Remove the lower housing and properly discard the oil.
Inspect the gasket for damage.
Now inspect the removable seat for damage. If there is damage, it will need to be replaced.
Put the diaphragm plate into the vise and use a 9/16” wrench to remove the nut.
Remove the ratio plug and seat. Inspect them for damage and replace them if needed.
Next, check the gasket for damage and then remove the lower housing. This gasket may have been stuck to the body instead.
Remove the spring and set this aside. This will be an extra part for this conversion.
Reassemble the lower housing, seat, ratio plug and nut.
Also apply new grease to the gasket.
Place the pilot housing upside down in the vise on the diaphragm plate.
Use a wrench to remove the pilot seat.
Inspect the diaphragm and replace it if necessary.
Use channel locks to remove the diaphragm nut from the diaphragm plate.
Remove and inspect the diaphragm and replace it if necessary.
Keep the diaphragm nut, but set the diaphragm plate aside, it will be an extra piece.
Put the new diaphragm on the new diaphragm plate. If you flex it, you can make the opening larger so you can start in on the threads more easily.
7.2 Diaphragm Plates
Thread the diaphragm plate into the diaphragm nut.
Place the spacer ring around the diaphragm to know how much to tighten it. If it is too tight, the diaphragm will be distorted and not fit correctly.
Then tighten the diaphragm nut with channel locks.
Replace the lower pilot housing and tighten the pilot seat and diaphragm in place. Again, be careful not to over tighten.
How to Reassemble a Pressure Reducing Balanced Regulator for Non-Vent Conversion
Put the body back in the vise and put the lower housing back on the body.
Be sure to align your marks.
Fill the lower housing, or oil bowl, with a low gravity oil, enough to cover the communication hole.
Place the diaphragm on top, bevel side facing up.
Replace the upper housing, aligning with your marks.
Only hand-tighten the bolts at this point so that it’s easier to replace the tubing later.
Replacing the Pilot Plug Spring
Use a 9/16” socket to remove the pilot seat.
Inspect the gasket for damage.
Use a pick to remove the pilot spring and set it aside; this will also be an extra piece.
Put in the new pilot plug spring (585).
Hold the pilot plug assembly by the ball of the pilot plug to keep it together while you thread on the assembly by hand. Then fully tighten it with a socket wrench.
Verify that the pilot plug can move freely before continuing.
Install the lower pilot housing assembly back on to the upper housing, making sure the diaphragm isn’t pinched or off center.
Place the spacer ring around the diaphragm, being sure to align the bolt holes with the upper housing.
Place the upper pilot housing, using your marks to keep it aligned.
Thread the pivot screw threw the diaphragm, keeping the convoluted side down.
Carefully hand start the pivot screw to ensure it is not cross threaded. Then tighten until snug.
Add grease to the pivot screw.
Replace the spacer and gasket, lower spring plate, spring and upper spring plate.
Apply grease to the spring plates if necessary.
Align the bonnet with your markings and hand-tighten the bolts.
Reassemble all the tubing and then fully tighten all the bolts in a star pattern.
Lastly, tighten the tubing connectors.
Now your pressure reducing balanced regulator is non-venting. If you have any questions about any part of this repair process or the custom Kimray tools used, reach out to your local Kimray store or authorized distributor.
We have other solutions available to help you meet your company’s ESG goals, including electric actuators and pilots, non-vent control valves and more. For more information, check out our emissions solutions guide.
8. How to Convert a Pressure Reducing Regulator to Outside Supply
Looking for practical steps to take to achieve your ESG commitments? One source of natural gas emissions may be your pressure reducing regulator.
In this video, we'll show how a simple change can prevent your Pressure Reducing Regulators from venting natural gas.
Non-Vent Regulators vs Outside Supply Regulators
To eliminate emissions from your regulator, you can either choose a non-vent or an outside supply regulator operated with compressed air. Either option can be purchased new, or easily converted with only a few extra parts.
If your pressure differential — or the pressure drop across the valve (𝚫P) — is 10 PSI or less, we recommend converting to the outside supply regulator.
If your regulator has been in service, we recommend also installing a repair kit.
9/16” Wrench / Socket
Multi-Purpose Lubricant/Grease
1/4" Tubing Bending Equipment
8.1 Parts Needed
We’re in a controlled environment, but if you are doing this in-line, you will need to isolate and depressurize the valve first. Before beginning, consult your company’s safety guidelines and use the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE).
How to Disassemble a Pressure Reducing Regulator for Outside Supply Conversion
Position the valve on a vise so that you have access to the elbow on the upstream communication port.
Using a 9/16” wrench, loosen the adjustment screw to relieve spring tension.
Next, remove the pressure gauge.
Then loosen the tubing connectors from both sense line ports.
Remove and discard the bonnet bolts with a 9/16” wrench.
Remove the bonnet, upper spring plate, spring, lower spring plate, and spacer ring.
Rotate the pilot housing to remove the tubing coming from the gauge sense line. Leave the elbow on the T and downstream sense line port in place.
Discard the tubing from the filter body and downstream port.
Then remove the pilot housing from the upper housing.
Turn the pilot housing over and use a 9/16” wrench to remove the pilot seat and diaphragm. Set aside for later use.
How to Reassemble a Pressure Reducing Regulator for Outside Supply Conversion
Remove the valve body from the vise and replace with the diaphragm plate.
Place the original diaphragm housing with the Tee connector over this assembly with the smooth surface facing up.
Thread a (110) diaphragm on the seat extension. Thread the seat extension into the diaphragm plate by hand, then tighten until snug.
Make sure the (110) diaphragm is centered in the pilot housing.
Next, place the spacer over the seat extension with the part number facing up.
8.2 Spacer Part with Number Facing Up
Put a new (1701) diaphragm housing on top, smooth side up.
8.3 Second Diaphragm Plate with Smooth Side Facing Up
Now thread the (110) diaphragm and (113) pilot seat assembly into the seat extension until snug.
Remove the diaphragm housing assembly from the vise and place the body back in.
Place the diaphragm housing assembly on top of the upper housing.
The lower diaphragm housing port will face the upstream side of the valve body.
The upper diaphragm housing port will face the downstream side.
8.4 Port Locations
Place the spacer ring around the diaphragm.
Add grease to the upper diaphragm plate.
Replace the lower spring plate, spring and upper spring plate.
Then grease the top of the upper spring plate if needed.
Place the bonnet on the valve body with the breather plug facing the Kimray logo.
Hand-start the new longer bolts but do not tighten them all the way.
Now bend and fit your tubing to connect the two elbows.
Then tighten the fittings. Since you’re only using the nuts and ferrules, you can discard the elbows.
Now you can fully tighten the bonnet bolts.
Use a 9/16” wrench to install the breather plug into the lower diaphragm housing port, face the opening down or angled.
Apply Loctite to the gauge and install it on the top port of the Tee.
Now remove the elbow from the upstream sensing port and replace it with a (699) plug.
Remove the elbow from the filter body. This will become the connection port for your outside supply.
We have other solutions available to help you meet your company’s ESG goals, including electric actuators and pilots, non-vent control valves and more. For more information, check out our emissions solutions guide.