In this guide we’ll walk you through everything there is to know about low pressure control valves.
From the basics of how it works to step-by-step repairs and troubleshooting, you’ll gain a solid foundation of knowledge on how to operate and maintain Kimray’s low pressure control valves.
Use the table of contents to skip to different sections of the learning path.
NOTE: Kit sheets can be used for multiple repair kits. You may not have all the components in your kit that are shown on the included sheet. The RHE will not have a 163 or 127.
The (364) gasket is only used if you are also replacing the removeable seat.
1.3 Repair Kit Items
Adjustable Double Acting Disassembly Steps
Before disassembling, make a mark down the bonnet, lower housing and body so that when you reassemble later, you’ll know exactly how they line up.
Using a 9/16” wrench, loosen the adjustment screw to relieve spring tension.
Take off the bonnet by removing the six bolts with a 3/16” hex wrench.
Remove the spring and spring plate, then lift off the lower housing.
Push up on the seat to raise the stem and diaphragm.
Dispose of the oil in the lower housing then set it aside.
Remove and discard the gasket. It may either be on the body or stuck to the lower housing.
Inspect the seat to make sure it is not damaged.
NOTE: The 1” full port does not have a removeable seat, so if there’s damage, you’ll need to replace the (2033) body. If the reduced port removeable seat is damaged, it will need to be taken out with a Kimray removeable seat tool (1349SW) and replaced with a new (1349) seat. This part is not included in your repair kit and will need to be ordered separately. If it’s not damaged, continue with the repair.
Put the lower housing upside down in the vise, gripped by the nut.
Use a flathead screwdriver to unthread the stem.
Now remove the upper diaphragm plate, diaphragm, and lower diaphragm plate. Discard the diaphragm. Then remove the stem.
Use a pick to remove the two backups and O-ring from the lower housing.
Remove the nut from the vise and replace it with the stem.
Now unthread the reduced ratio plug (1346) from the stem.
Remove and discard the reduced seat, but keep the seat disc.
Adjustable Double Acting Reassembly Steps
Replace the (1347P) reduced seat on the seat disc.
Tighten the (1346) reduced ratio plug back into the seat disc until snug.
Remove the stem and set aside for now.
Stretch the (148T) Teflon backup slightly to make it look like a spring.
Insert one end of the backup into the lower housing and use a pick to rotate it clockwise until it’s fully installed.
Pinch and fold the (153) O-ring to make it easier to install.
Push the O-ring and first Teflon backup all the way down to the bottom of the lower housing channel to make room for the last backup.
Again, uncoil the Teflon backup, then insert it into the lower housing and rotate clockwise.
Add grease to the Teflon backups and O-ring.
Put the stem in the vise, gripping it by the seat disc.
Slide the lower housing on to the stem.
Slide the (736) upper diaphragm plate onto the stem, part number down. Use a Kimray Stem Guide if you have one.
Then add the diaphragm, bevel side down.
Add the (731) lower diaphragm plate, part number down.
Now thread on the (172) nut.
Put the valve body in the vise.
Grease the top of the valve body, place the (195) gasket on top and grease it as well.
Now add oil to the lower housing – enough to cover the communication hole. From here on, be careful not to tilt the housing so the oil does not pour out.
Put the lower housing into the valve body, aligning your marks.
Grease the upper diaphragm plate.
Put on the spring and upper spring plate.
Grease the top of the spring plate, if needed. Then replace the bonnet.
Now thread in the bolts and tighten. Be sure to include the metal tag.
How to Repair a Double Acting Low Pressure Control Valve
Kit sheets can be used for multiple repair kits. You may not have all the components in your kit that are shown on the included sheet. The RHE will not have a 163 or 127.
The (364) gasket is only used if you are also replacing the removeable seat.
Double Acting Disassembly Steps
Repairing the EUA3 is a very similar process to the ABC2 above.
If you have previously connected fittings, make a mark down the bonnet, lower housing, and body so that when you reassemble, you’ll know how they go together.
Use a 7/16” wrench to remove the bonnet bolts.
Remove and discard the diaphragm.
Lift off the lower housing and dispose of the oil.
Remove and discard the gasket. It may be on the body or stuck to the lower housing.
Inspect the seat to make sure it is not damaged.
The 1” full port does not have a removeable seat, so if there’s damage, you’ll need to replace the 2033 body. If the reduced port removeable seat is damaged, it will need to be taken out with a Kimray removable seat tool (1349SW) and replaced with a new 1349 seat. This part is not included in your repair kit and will need to be ordered separately. If it’s not damaged, continue with the repair.
Put the lower housing in the vise by the diaphragm plate.
Use a 7/16” wrench to remove and discard the nut. If the stem unthreads from the plate instead, put the stem in the vise to remove the nut.
Now remove the ratio plug and set it aside.
Remove the soft seat and discard.
Use a pick to remove and discard the two backups and O-ring from the lower housing.
Single Acting Reassembly Steps
Stretch the Teflon backup slightly to make it look like a spring.
Insert one end of the backup into the lower housing and use a pick to rotate it clockwise until it’s fully installed.
Pinch and fold the O-ring to make it easier to install.
Push the O-ring and first Teflon backup all the way down to the bottom of the lower housing channel to make room for the last backup.
Uncoil the second Teflon backup, then insert it into the lower housing and rotate clockwise.
Add grease to the Teflon backups and O-ring.
With the stem in the vise, put the new (163) seat onto the seat disc.
Put on the ratio plug you set aside earlier.
Then hand tighten on the new (172) nut.
Put the stem into the lower housing. Use a stem guide if you have one.
Now put on the diaphragm plate, part number facing the lower housing.
Secure the diaphragm plate in the vice.
Now tighten the nut. You know it’s tight enough when your seat has expanded to the walls of the seat disc. Be careful not to over-tighten.
Put the body back in the vise.
Grease the surface of the body where the gasket will set, then add the (195) gasket. Apply more grease to the top.
Put the lower housing on the valve body, making sure to align your marks.
Add oil to the lower housing – enough to cover the communication hole.
Put on the (127) diaphragm, bevel side down.
Now install the bonnet with the bonnet bolts and a 7/16” wrench.
The E-LO utilizes a main circuit board and one of 3 module options:
Discrete module, which uses dry contacts only and less than 3 volts;
Analog module, which is 4-20 milliamps for variable control;
Modbus control module which can be utilized with Modbus RS-485.
2.1 Module Options
These modules can be changed out to suit your application needs, but it is ESSENTIAL that you turn off all power before doing this or any other work to the E-LO.
Because it is run on low voltage (24V), operators may be tempted to wire in the main board or change a module without powering down the unit. This is a big problem for many reasons, including safety and functionality.
These modules are not designed to be “hot swapped” — or swapped out while power is coming in.
Putting a module in while there is power on the unit will almost inevitably damage it. The surge of electricity can fry its memory and result in it not functioning correctly, or perhaps at all.
If you are experiencing performance issues with the E-LO, like It’s not opening or closing fully, or it’s not responding to an input, the module or main board may have been damaged at some point. If you suspect this is the case, you will likely need to contact your Kimray rep to order a new module or board. You can visually inspect them for damage, though the damage may not always be visible.
How to Replace the Module
2.2 Disconnect the Wire Inputs
Once the system has been de-pressurized and electricity turned off, remove the cover and disconnect the input wires from the module.
Now, simply remove the old one, snap the new module in place, and reconnect the input wires. On the board, you will also see a 4-pin connector with the voltage in, ground and a proof-of-closure connection. The POC is for discrete output to an LED or an auxiliary alarm to let you know it’s seated.
Thread on the cover and you’re finished.
How to Replace the Circuit Board
Once the system has been de-pressurized and the electricity turned off, remove the cover and disconnect the input wires.
Remove the module if it is in place. Use a control screwdriver and disconnect motor wiring from the board. Remove the four hex bolts with a 3/32” hex key.
Remove the board and fasten the new board to the unit with four hex bolts.
Reconnect the motor wiring, replace the module, reconnect the input wires, and thread on the cover.
Preventative Maintenance for the Electric Low Pressure Control Valve (E-LO)
Preventative Maintenance should be performed on the E-LO on a regular basis. Under normal conditions, the body will last years; however, you need to inspect the valve seat every 6 months under normal service and conditions.
Under severe service conditions such as sand, corrosion, salt or high pressure drop, inspect more often until a predictable pattern can be established.
How to Disassemble an Electric Low Pressure Control Valve (E-LO)
2.5 Parts of the Valve
Once the system has been de-energized of pressure and electricity, remove the cover and disconnect the input wires.
Remove the (6) bonnet cover bolts with a 7/16" wrench and carefully remove the electrical assembly, housing and bonnet.
With a flathead screwdriver, remove the ratio plug and set it aside. Discard the rubber seat and keep the seat disc.
Flip the unit over and use a 5/32” hex key to remove the 2 screws on the motor flange. If you can’t reach the screws with your hex key, you may need to remove the circuit board as previously shown.
Separate the motor from the housing by gently pulling the shaft through the assembly.
Remove the 2 guide pins from the housing.
Rotate the unit again and use a 3/16” hex key to remove the 2 socket head screws and separate the housing body from the bonnet.
Use a pick to remove and discard the larger O-ring from the bonnet.
Push the Teflon back up, O-ring and stem bushing through the bonnet to remove and discard from the other side.
Use a pick to remove and discard the 2 O-rings from the top of the bonnet.
From the housing, remove and discard the small O-ring from the bottom and the large O-ring from the threads.
From the stem, carefully remove the retaining ring using a pick.
Remove the washer and set it aside.
Lastly, remove and discard the spring.
Replacing the Seat If Needed
Inspect the seat for damage. If it needs to be replaced, you will need to order this part separately because it is not included in the repair kit.
With the Kimray Seat Wrench (1349SW), unscrew the seat from the body.
Remove and discard the seat gasket. It may be either stuck to the seat or in the body.
Clean the gasket seating surfaces to remove any residue.
To reinstall the seat, first install the seat gasket onto the seat.
Apply grease to the gasket
Then screw the seat into the body with the Kimray Seat Wrench.
2.6 Repair Kit Items
How to Reassemble an Electric Low Pressure Control Valve (E-LO)
During all parts of the assembly, be careful not to damage the module or circuit board by resting the unit on any surface.
2.7 Stem Spacing
Before assembling, rotate the stem carrier to leave a gap between it and the motor body approximately 3 full turns from fully seated, or about 1/8”.
Install the spring and washer onto the valve stem.
Install the retaining ring next with needle nose pliers. Make sure the stem is pulled out completely to make it easier to install.
Install the O-Ring on bottom of the bonnet.
Flip it over, then install the two small O-rings.
Install the Teflon backup.
Install the O-ring on top of the Teflon backup.
Install the stem bushing.
Apply a small amount of grease to the O-rings and bushing.
Install the O-ring on the bottom of the housing and apply a small amount of grease.
Align the bonnet and housing. The ground screw should be facing 180° from the conduit port. Secure firmly with two 3/16” hex screws.
Insert the 2 guide pins into the housing.
Insert the valve stem through the housing with the 4-pin connector on the same side as the NPT opening. The stem carrier must be installed between the guide pins.
2.8 Conduit Port and Ground Screw Alignment2.9 4-Pin Connector and NPT Opening Alignment2.10 Stem Pins
Secure the motor assembly with two 5/32” hex screws.
Apply a small amount of thread locker to the stem threads.
Install the seat disc (part number towards the bonnet) and new rubber seat.
Install the ratio plug, making sure the seat is centered before tightening.
Align the bonnet onto the body with the annunciation stem facing downstream.
Install the 6 screws in a star pattern and torque to 10 ft-lb.
Install the large O-ring around the housing threads and apply grease.
Connect all input wires and follow all setup and test instructions in the IOM.
Put the new cap over the annunciation stem.
Thread on the cover until it is firmly seated.
For further questions about any of these processes, contact our Product Support team.
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