In this guide we’ll walk you through everything there is to know about float operated controllers.
From the basics of how it works to step-by-step repairs and troubleshooting, you’ll gain a solid foundation of knowledge on how to operate and maintain Kimray’s float operated controllers.
Use the table of contents to skip to different sections of the learning path.
1. How to Repair and Maintain a Gen 3 Liquid Level Controller
The Kimray Gen 3 Liquid Level Controller is a simple, versatile solution that allows for quick adjustments, intuitive set up, and precise liquid level control.
In this video, Mike shows how to perform proper maintenance on a Gen 3 Liquid Level Controller.
The Gen 3 includes a 1/8" hex key for the pilot and lever fasteners, and it can be conveniently stored inside the enclosure as shown here.
1.1 Parts Needed
In addition to this tool, you will also need the following:
Adjustable Wrench
1/2” Hex Wrench (For Cleanout Port)
1/8” Hex Wrench (Included in Enclosure)
1¼" Wrench (For Bearing Hubs)
5/16” Wrench (For Displacer Arm)
15/16” Wrench (For Spring Bushing)
3/8” Socket (For Pilot Cartridge)
9/16" Socket (For Mount Screws)
Thread Tape
Loctite (Thread Locker)
Needle Nose Pliers
Repair Kit (RYC)
Grease
Pick
Repair Kit Replacements
Repair kits contain all seals and wear components recommended to be replaced during scheduled maintenance intervals for the entire unit.
We recommend an initial maintenance interval of 6 months. This interval can be increased or decreased based on the condition at the time of the first 6-month service.
Most of the following maintenance steps can be performed with the unit still connected to the vessel. But, as with any maintenance being performed, make sure all pressure has been released from the vessel, and confirm that no supply gas pressure remains in the lines or the pilot prior to beginning any maintenance.
How to Replace the Pilot in a Gen 3 Liquid Level Controller
A clean and well-maintained pilot is key to the performance of the Gen 3. Wet or dirty supply gas can introduce blockages in pilot communication holes or cause the pilot plug to stick. This can lead to the pilot not sending a signal or venting when it should, or continuously sending a signal.
1.2 Pilot and Parts
You can purchase a new, preassembled, tested pilot as a drop-in replacement or follow these steps using a Kimray repair kit to disassemble and inspect your current pilot.
Remove the socket screws with the included 1/8" hex key.
Then remove the pilot by prying under the flats.
Remove and discard the four O-rings around the outside of the pilot cartridge.
Place the flats of the lower pilot cartridge into a vise or hold it in place with a wrench.
Unthread and remove the flanged top pilot cap with a 3/8" or adjustable wrench.
Remove and discard the spring.
Use pliers to remove and discard the upper diaphragm assembly and the conical spring.
Turn the pilot assembly over to remove and discard the pilot plug.
Unthread the pilot cap with a 3/8" socket or adjustable wrench.
Use pliers to remove and discard the lower diaphragm assembly and lower spring.
Clean out all communication holes. Inspect pilot plug seat area for scratches, scoring, or pitting. If there is damage that could allow a leak path, you’ll need to replace the pilot.
Place the lower spring on the lower diaphragm assembly and install it into the pilot cartridge.
Hand start threading the lower cap over the lower diaphragm assembly. Use a 3/8” socket to torque to 25-30 in-lbs.
Turn the pilot cartridge upright and put it in the vise.
Install the pilot plug, small diameter ball first, all the way into the seat area so that the large diameter ball rests in the seat.
Place the small end of the conical spring onto the upper diaphragm assembly. Use needle nose pliers to insert the assembly straight into the cartridge.
Place the booster spring on top of the diaphragm assembly.
With the spring centered in the hole, place the top cap on the pilot cartridge. Tighten by hand and torque to 25-30 in-lbs. with a 3/8” socket.
Remove the cartridge from the vice and install the four O-rings into the narrow grooves on the outside of the cartridge. Then lightly grease the O-rings.
CAUTION: Do not allow grease to get into the communication holes, as this could cause the pilot to not operate properly.
Insert the pilot cartridge into the enclosure, rotating clockwise to avoid unthreading the pilot as it’s inserted into the enclosure.
Line up the holes in any orientation and install the three socket screws with the 1/8" hex key.
How to Disassemble the Gen 3 Liquid Level Controller
For this portion of the maintenance, the unit should be removed from the vessel.
Place the Gen 3 in a vise by the mount only.
Remove the displacer arm along with any extensions from the mount using a 5/16 adjustable wrench.
Open and remove the cover.
Relieve some of the force on the spring by rotating the spring adjusting knob clockwise.
Remove the spring and upper spring plate.
Remove the torque lever by loosening the set screw on the underside using the included 1/8” hex key.
Remove the two mount screws with a 9/16” socket, and lift the enclosure off the mount, leaving the mount in the vise.
Remove and discard the mount gasket between the enclosure and the mount.
Remove the first bearing hub with a 1 ¼" wrench.
Flip the mount over in the vise and remove the second bearing hub and shaft.
Use a pick to remove and discard the outer O-rings.
Remove and discard the flanged bearings from both hubs.
Use a pick to push out the O-ring and back-up ring from inside both hubs. These can be discarded.
Remove the access port socket plug with 1/2” hex wrench from the end of the mount.
Remove and discard the O-ring from threads.
Inspect the shaft for scoring, pitting or other potential leak paths, especially around the sealing areas.
Clean out any solids that have built up inside of the mount.
How to Reassemble the Gen 3 Liquid Level Controller
Install the O-rings over both bearing hubs & the socket plug. Roll the O-ring over the threads instead of pushing them over them to avoid damaging the seal.
Start socket plug by hand and tighten to 30-35 ft·lbs.
In both bearing hubs, stack the O-ring on the concaved side of the back-up ring. Insert the stack, back-up ring side down into the bearing hub and push down until it seats. Turn it over to make sure it’s sitting flush.
Insert the flanged bearing.
Install one of the bearing hubs on the back side of the mount. Tighten with a 1 ¼” wrench.
Flip the mount over in the vise and insert the short side of the shaft into the installed bearing hub.
Install the second bearing hub over the shaft. Tighten both bearing hubs to 30-35 ft·lbs.
Use the torque lever as a tool to turn the shaft so that the threaded hole in the middle of the shaft is facing out.
Apply blue Loctite to the threads of both ends of the displacer arm.
Thread the displacer arm into the shaft and tighten with a 5/16” or adjustable wrench on the flats.
If you’re using a vertical displacer, use the coupling to connect it to the displacer arm.
If you’re using a horizontal displacer, thread the displacer directly onto the displacer arm.
Align the mount gasket and enclosure over the mounting holes.
Apply blue Loctite to the mount screws then install.
Slide the torque lever over flats of the shaft with the set screw facing downward, then tighten the set screw.
How to Install the Spring Assembly in a Gen 3 Liquid Level Controller
Remove ½” NPT spring bushing with a 15/16” or adjustable wrench.
Unthread the spring assembly from the lower spring plate and remove it from the enclosure.
Remove and replace the spring adjuster washer and O-ring on the spring adjusting knob.
Thread the lower spring plate on the adjusting knob, then insert the assembly into the enclosure.
Apply thread tape to the ½” NPT spring bushing and thread it into the enclosure by hand.
Tighten it fully with a wrench.
Push down on the lower spring plate firmly until it bottoms-out onto the bushing.
Lift the displacer arm and install the spring and upper spring plate. Make sure the rounded protrusion aligns with the hole in the torque lever.
How to Install the Filter in a Gen 3 Liquid Level Controller
Remove the filter using an adjustable wrench.
Clean out the filter element using compressed air in the hole in the male connection end.
Apply thread tape, then reinstall the filter into the enclosure.
How to Install the Pilot Lever Washer
Use the 1/8” hex key to remove the pilot lever screw.
Replace the pilot lever washer and reinstall the screw.
2. How to Repair and Maintain a Pneumatic Level Switch
A Pneumatic Level Switch can be used as either a high-level or low-level switch in a pressurized vessel. It sends a pneumatic signal, which can be used to actuate a control valve open or closed. It can also be used in place of a level controller for on/off service in tight spaces—for instance, in a 12” diameter vertical separator.
This switch is field-reversible from direct acting to indirect acting, so it can be used in conjunction with a fail-open or fail-closed control valve.
2.1 Direct Acting vs Indirect Acting
You can test the level switch by holding down the manual override. We recommend testing this at least every six months to confirm the level switch is working properly.
We also recommend using a repair kit at least once a year for preventative maintenance. While the body will last for many years, the internal components and soft goods can wear out more quickly.
A convenient feature of the switch is that it can be repaired without being removed from the piping. In this video, we use a controlled environment and a vise.
Parts Needed
2.2 Parts Needed
For this job, you will need the following tools, equipment and chemicals:
If you are unthreading the switch from the vessel, place the switch in the vise but tighten only on the flats so that you do not damage the threads or housing.
Also note the orientation of the pilot body. If the vent is on the same side as the manual override, it is set up in direct acting mode. If you’re not changing applications, you’ll want to make sure to assemble this in the same orientation later.
First, remove the filter cap using an adjustable wrench.
Use a pick to remove and discard the O-ring.
Then discard the 6 filter screens inside the filter body.
Remove the nipple from the body with a 5/8” wrench.
Use a 7/16” socket to unthread the bolts in order to remove the pilot body. Note that there is a small plug on the pilot body assembly. This is an internal plug inserted during the machining process and should never be removed.
2.3 Pilot Body Plug Not To Be Removed
Remove the diaphragm by using a pick to lift it. This piece will be discarded, so if you damage it during this process that’s okay. Be aware once the diaphragm is removed, the stem may fall out of the body. Keep the stem to reuse.
Discard the O-ring from the stem, then set the stem aside.
On the housing, remove the two (2) O-rings and two (2) disc filters. They should come out together.
Reposition the housing in the vise so you can access one of the seats.
Use a screwdriver to unthread the first seat. You can use channel locks to loosen the seat if it is stuck.
Once you’ve removed the first seat, the shuttle may fall out depending on how the switch is oriented. If it hasn’t fallen out, remove it when you flip the unit around.
With the switch secured in the vise, remove the second seat.
Each seat has two (2) O-rings on it to discard. The bottom one may be stuck in the body, so use a straight pick to get it out.
Next, use a 9/16” wrench to loosen the override fitting.
Use a 5/64” hex wrench to unthread the set screw and remove the cap.
Now remove the spring and stem and set them aside.
Remove and discard the O-ring from the threads on the override. On our level switch, the O-ring had disintegrated so there was nothing to remove.
And lastly, use a straight pick to discard the O-ring located inside the override.
How to Inspect a Pneumatic Level Switch
With the level switch disassembled, next, inspect and clean each component with compressed air to make sure the body is free from contaminants. If you use brake cleaner, wipe it clean before assembly.
Clear the vent plugs of any debris.
Inspect the float for any punctures or damage.
Float/Float Arm Disassembly
You may need to inspect the float lever more closely or clean any solid buildup inside the level switch. This model (used in the video) was manufactured in 2013 and has more space for debris to accumulate. Newer models have a plug in this area, but the removal of the float is the same.
2.4 New Design vs Old Design
Start by loosening the set screw and/or the float extension. This will allow you to then slide the pivot pin out with a punch. Clean out any solids, inspect the components for any damage, then reinstall it.
If you have removed the float, use primer and Loctite when you reattach it on the threads.
At this point, you can clean up your station, open your repair kit and begin assembly.
2.5 Repair Kit Parts
How to Reassemble a Pneumatic Level Switch
Override Assembly
Begin by inserting the (5410) O-ring into the override fitting.
Next, put the (7584) O-ring around the outside of the override fitting.
Install the stem and spring adding grease the tip of the stem to protect the O-ring as you install the stem.
Place the cap on top of spring and compress the assembly to tightening the set screw with a 5/64” hex wrench. Make sure the stem is fully down so the screw catches it. The stem should be flush with the top of the cap.
Apply thread sealant (Loctite #567) to the override fitting threads.
Thread the override fitting back into the housing with a 9/16” wrench.
On this example level switch we used in our video, we found the internal threads were messed up and we were unable to thread the fitting back into the body. After trying a ¼" tap with no success, at this point we would need a new level switch because a replacement body would not be cost effective. For the purpose of this video, we’ll leave it partially unthreaded and continue showing the repair process.
Seats/Shuttle
Install a (7019V) O-ring and the (7015V) O-ring on each seat.
Lightly oil both O-rings.
Tighten the first seat in place with a flathead screwdriver.
Flip the housing around and insert the shuttle. Make sure that the shuttle is fully inserted.
Install the second seat and fully tighten it with a screwdriver.
If you’ve installed it correctly, you can hear a faint “click” sound when the float is moved, telling you that the shuttle can freely move.
Housing O-rings/Disc Filters
Reposition the housing again to now have access to the back of the housing.
Install the (7524) O-rings over the (7012) disc filters.
Then place them into the housing.
Pilot Body
Apply oil to the grooved part of the (6994) diaphragm.
Install the (7016) O-ring onto the stem and apply a small amount of oil to the O-ring.
Insert it through the back of the pilot body through the supply inlet.
Use a punch or similar tool to push the stem out while you install the diaphragm around the stem, grooved side facing down. You may want to hold the diaphragm with needle nose pliers for better grip. The diaphragm will be flush with the body after installing it.
Direct/Indirect Acting
Next, reattach the pilot housing to the body. This is where you will decide if you want direct acting or indirect acting. For direct acting, which is what we will be doing, align the vent plug on the same side as the override.
If you are installing it for low level shutdown, you will want to install it upside down, with the button on the bottom, and keep it in direct acting mode. This will keep the test button functional and allow the switch to signal a valve only when the level gets low enough for the float to drop.
For indirect acting, turn the pilot body so the vent plug is 180° from the override. It’s very easy to switch from direct to indirect acting on the level switches.
Tighten the two bolts evenly with a 7/16" wrench.
2.6 Direct Acting Illustration2.7 Indirect Acting Illustration
Filter Body
Apply primer and Loctite to the end of the nipple (both ends if you fully removed the nipple from the filter body).
Install the filter and nipple onto the pilot body using a 5/8” wrench. Orient the filter body in line with the other features on the housing.
2.8 Aligned Components
Install the six (619) filter screens. These can all be installed at once or individually. There’s a slight rolled edge on each screen caused by the punch used to cut them. Insert these so the rolled edge is facing up and verify that the screens are resting on the inside shoulder.
Install the (155) O-ring on the cap and add a small amount of oil.
Install it into the filter body by hand and then fully tighten it with an adjustable wrench.