In this guide we’ll walk you through everything there is to know about weight operated dump valves.
From the basics of how it works to step-by-step repairs and troubleshooting, you’ll gain a solid foundation of knowledge on how to operate and maintain Kimray’s weight operated dump valves.
Use the table of contents to skip to different sections of the learning path.
1. Three Potential Operational Issues for the Weight Operated Dump Valve
Experiencing operational issues with your Weight Operated Dump Valve? In this video, we explain three possible reasons for this and show you how to correct them.
If your Weight Operated Dump Valve is opening and closing too quickly or not holding tight level control, this usually indicates an issue with the valve equalizing line.
Here are three things to check:
1. Droops in the Equalizing Line
1.1 Droops in Equalizing Line
If there are sections of your equalizing line tubing that droop, liquids can collect there and affect the accuracy of your gas going to the Weight Operated Dump Valve. This is especially true in cold weather, when these liquids can freeze.
The fix for this is to run your tubing on a consistent decline all the way to the drip pot on the Weight Operated Dump Valve. This will let all the liquids drain out. Remember to drain the drip pot daily, especially in cold weather.
2. Tubing Too Close to Back Pressure Regulator
1.2 Equalizing Line Too Close to Back Pressure Regulator
Your equalizing line may be tubed up too close to the back pressure regulator on your gas line. When the back pressure valve opens to release pressure from the vessel, it creates a slight difference between the actual vessel pressure and what the equalizing line is sensing close to the back pressure valve.
The fix for this is to run your Weight Operated Dump Valve equalizing line to a place on your vessel that isn't as subject to abrupt pressure changes.
3. Burner Valve Operation
1.3 Burner Valve Pulling Gas
Your burner valve may be pulling gas from the Weight Operated Dump Valve's equalizing line. When the burner valve opens, it sends gas into the burner to increase temperature. This can rob gas from your equalizing line and create a difference between the actual vessel pressure and what the equalizing line is sensing.
The fix for this is to tube up your equalizing line to a place where it is not subject to volume changes when the burner kicks on.
2. How to Fix a Leaky Weight Operated Dump Valve
The Weight Operated Dump Valve is a product that producers use to control levels in heater treaters.
Certain conditions can cause oscillation of the weighted lever, accelerating the progressive wear on the stuffing box seal, allowing a leak to occur.
The Weight Operated Dump Valve uses equalizing gas directly from the vessel to balance the valve, which gives it the sensitivity to be able to actuate based on the small pressure changes resulting from the rising liquid head.
2.1 Weight Operated Dump Valve Flow Illustration
When this equalizing pressure becomes different than the upstream pressure in the valve, it creates an imbalance of forces on the diaphragm. This can cause oscillation of the trim, which is visible from the outside as an oscillating lever arm.
This oscillation, over time, can lead to premature wear on the shaft and seals, leading to leaks at the stuffing box connection.
2.2 Stuffing Box Bounce
The most common causes of the imbalance and oscillation are:
The equalizing line is being shared with another pneumatic device.
Condensate is collecting and blocking the line due to a dip (or in the drip pot if it’s not being drained regularly).
The valve is oversized valve
Understanding that these conditions can exist in a heater treater system, Kimray has designed a new adjustable stuffing box to combat the oscillation and leaks. Now you can adjust the stuffing box nut to tighten the seal on the shaft.
2.3 Equalizing Line Dip
The new design combats the issue in two ways:
The tighter hold on the shaft significantly dampens the oscillation and can even eliminate it altogether.
The adjustability ensures that you can tighten the seal if leaks ever begin to occur.
Benefits of the New Stuffing Box
2.4 New Stuffing Box
Material
The new design is made of stainless steel for corrosion resistance and is available in optional 316 stainless steel for enhanced corrosion resistance and NACE compliance.
2.5 Stuffing Box and Stem
Seal
The seal between the two supporting bushings provides strength and stability to the shaft, eliminating any potential angular movement.
In other designs the seal is not in between the two bushings so the weight and dynamic movement of the lever and unavoidable thickness variations in the bushings can allow angular movement of the shaft.
2.6 Seal vs Other Designs
Adjustability
By tightening the stuffing box nut, the packing ring is compressed, which tightens the squeeze on the Teflon sleeve, providing a low friction surface to compress and seal around the shaft. If leaks ever do occur, simply tighten the nut until the leak stops. No need to isolate the valve and remove the stuffing box to replace the seal.
2.7 Stuffing Box Assembly
Kits
With the release of the new stuffing box design, Repair Kits will include components needed for repairs on this version and all previous versions, all in one kit.
Additionally, we offer a conversion kit that can be used to replace any existing stuffing boxes, compatible with all previous versions of the weight operated dump valve:
Loosen the set screw and remove the lever hub arm assembly.
Remove the stuffing box with a wrench.
Remove the shaft and inspect the critical seal area 5/16” out from the shoulder. This is where the new packing Teflon ring will sit. If the surface finish in this area is rough or there are scratches that could allow a leak path, replace the shaft.
Slide the Teflon thrust washer onto the long end of the shaft. The thrust washer is important to reduce the friction between the stuffing box and the shoulder of the shaft.
Re-install the shaft with the flat on the end facing down.
On the side of the stuffing box with the smaller inner diameter hole, add grease where the O-ring will sit.
Add the O-ring to the same side of the stuffing box and add more grease to the outside of the O-ring.
Hand start this side of the stuffing box into the bonnet and tighten with a wrench.
Add grease to the shaft.
Slide the Teflon ring onto the shaft followed by the packing ring.
Then use the bushing to push it into the stuffing box.
Tighten the adjusting nut onto the stuffing box as tight as you can get it with your hand, then an extra ¼ turn with a wrench.
Use a wrench to remove the trunnion plug from the other side of the bonnet.
Use a pick to remove the Teflon ring and replace it with the new one from the kit.
Replace the trunnion plug and fully tighten with a wrench.
Put the lever arm back on and tighten the set screw.
After the valve is installed and pressurized, the nut should be tightened further, only as much as needed to stop any leaks, plus an additional 1/8 turn. Over-tightening the nut could hold the shaft too tightly and impede proper operation.
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